Steakhouses are to restaurant reviewers what blockbuster summer movies are to film critics. Big and obvious, they are rarely taken seriously. And the critiques often read as if they were written with a hatchet rather than a computer.
I secretly look forward to visiting steakhouses. Granted, I'm happier when I can just enjoy my steak and not have to scrutinize it, but there is still something comforting about a place where the food isn't going to be smarter than I am.
So it's with guilty pleasure that I make reservations at Landmark Steakhouse in Corona del Mar. As I book the table, I can almost taste the martini and smell the beef.
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